8-23-13 Anthony Chabot

Ranch Trail

I felt like doing a little hiking this morning, but didn't feel like I had the energy for anything very long. Plus, I wanted to have time to do some painting later. I remembered that I had intended to go back to the Ranch Trail in Anthony Chabot so I could get a good GPS track on it, since the park district map shows it obviously in the wrong location. Fog hung over the hills and kept it cool all morning and nice for hiking.

Darby and I started off from the Bort Meadow Staging Area and headed up the valley on the Grass Valley Trail. Not far beyond the Bort Meadow group camp area, the trail crosses the creek and switchbacks steeply up a spur ridge as the Ranch Trail. We came across a guy with a couple of dogs who leashed them and passed by without incident. Near the top of the ridge, we turned left on the Goldenrod Trail and went about a half mile, then turned left on the Buckeye Trail. It descends steeply down log steps into a little canyon. We passed the guy with the two dogs again -- apparently he was doing this loop in the opposite direction. Otherwise, we met no one else on the trail.

We were back at the car after just an hour of hiking. This is a nice little loop for a relatively short hike. It's a bit of a workout, with some steep climbing, and it is a pretty area with lots of variety in the vegetation -- grassy hills, brush, shady woods. The map below, while still not perfect because my GPS track was somewhat erratic, shows the locations of the trails much more accurately than the park map, which as you can see, is way off.

2.4 miles, 500 ft. climb

8-13-13 Sierra Camping

Maureen and I and Darby just spent 8 days in the Sierra. We spent 5 nights car camping and two nights in a cabin. It was a very relaxing trip and I got a good dose of Sierra -- something that I never seem to get enough of. We're calling this our vacation, but I don't know if you can still call a trip a vacation after you are retired.

We started off at our all-time favorite campground, Sherwin Creek near Mammoth Lakes. We've been camping there for about thirty years, ever since a friend recommended it. It's about three miles southeast of town on a partly unpaved road. It looks like it is just out in the sagebrush, but then you come to the campground in beautiful pine forest and aspens. The place is lightly used and quiet because most campers head for the lakes. We've noticed that every campground seems to have its own personality because of the type of campers that are attracted. This one seems to attract more of our kind of people -- those who are content to just quietly hang out and enjoy their surroundings. It's also conveniently located just a couple of miles from the many stores and restaurants of Mammoth Lakes.

Our Sherwin Creek campsite

Near Sherwin Creek Campground

Our first day, we did just that -- enjoyed our surroundings with a couple of short walks around the area around the campground. It's an area right on the edge of where the mountains meet the desert, a mix of sagebrush, forest and riparian vegetation that I find especially beautiful. Our next day, we set out to hike to Sherwin Lakes, a two mile hike with about 800 ft. of climbing. Maureen likes to hike, but she is not especially goal-oriented, so she turned back about a half mile from the lakes. Darby and I continued and I enjoyed sitting by a nice little lake and he enjoyed swimming after a thrown stick. Later, we drove out to Hot Creek and walked around a little. It is still fenced off and closed to swimming, but several people had climbed the fence and gone in anyway. It is still a beautiful spot even without the soak in the hot springs.

Sherwin Lakes

Hot Creek

We packed up and headed north, stopping as usual at the Mono Lake Committee store in Lee Vining. We had wanted to break up our trip so we wouldn't be in the same place too long, so we had reserved a campsite at Twin Lakes near Bridgeport. We were familiar with the area, but not the Lower Twin Lakes Campground, and when we got there, we discovered that our campsite was not designed for tent camping. The campsites were all packed together side by side with just a driveway for an RV and a table. No space for a tent. Plus, there was a group right next to us with a loose dog running around that was sure to make trouble for Darby. We seemed to be stuck in a bad situation -- no useable campsite on a Saturday afternoon in an area where all campgrounds are usually full in August. We wanted to check for available reservations in other campgrounds, but we had no phone service, so we drove back into Bridgeport, stopping along the way to check out all the other forest service campgrounds nearby. No luck with any of that, so as a last resort, I called Mono Village, the private resort at the head of the lakes, and they said they had sites available. We've stayed there several times before, and Maureen doesn't like it, but we didn't have much choice. But we found a nice site by the creek with plenty of room, and we settled in. The resort is a funky old place that has barely changed at all since I was first there in the late 50's. It's one of those places where families have been coming to for several generations.

 

Meadow next to Mono Village Campground

We walked around a nearby meadow that was really beautiful in the late afternoon light with the high peaks all around. The next day, after a little excitement when a small bear walked through our camp, we hiked up the Horse Creek Trail. I had been up and down Horse Creek several times in the past, and I remembered some nice views. We came to the cascades after about a half mile, and Maureen decided that it was far enough for her, and turned back. Darby and I continued up another mile or so and about 900 ft. up, to the first little flat valley, and were rewarded by a great view of Matterhorn Peak above a waterfall.

Matterhorn Peak from Horse Creek

Monday, we packed up again and drove north, stopping in Minden for groceries, and then to Ebetts Pass. I remembered years ago hiking a short distance to a little lake, but we couldn't find the trail, so we just sat on a hillside with views all around and ate some lunch. We continued to Lake Alpine and checked in to the Lake Alpine Lodge in a rustic little one-bedroom cabin. It was a nice change to have a clean place with a real bed and bathroom.

Lake Alpine Lodge cabin

Tuesday, we decided to hike to the top of the hill on the far side of the lake, a place called Inspiration Point (I wonder how many other places have that same name?). After a steep climb of about 700 ft., we were at the top of the ridge with interesting cliffs and outcrops of volcanic rock. I took a look at my phone and saw a happy birthday message from my old friend, Rosemary and her husband, Bo. I also got one from another friend, Norma. Yes, it was my birthday, and I couldn't have asked for a better one. Nice little hike, a swim in the lake in the afternoon, and a good steak for dinner at the lodge restaurant.

Maureen and Darby in Lake Alpine

We had been wondering about the lodge since Maureen checked Yelp after we had already made our reservations, and the reviews of both the cabins and the restaurant weren't so good. One of the burners on the stove didn't work and some folks that we met said they didn't have any hot water, but otherwise I guess we were lucky. I think maybe some people expect a mountain cabin to be like an urban hotel, but we expect it to be a bit old and funky. Makes it seem like roughing it some.

Altogether, a very good trip. I would have liked to have more time for some longer hikes, but it's also nice to just relax in beautiful surroundings.

8-1-13 Dinosaur Ridge

Yesterday, I was adding some maps to some of my previous posts, and I noticed that there was a comment on my post about Dinosaur Ridge from 4-19-13. I was quite surprised. Since I haven't done anything to publicize this blog, I didn't think anyone would ever find it. The comment suggested an easier way to get to Dinosaur Ridge from Bellhurst Lane at the top of the Columbia development off Cull Canyon Road. I had been intending to try this anyway, so I decided to go ahead and do it this morning.

Part of this route would be on EBMUD land, where dogs are not allowed, so I left Darby at home. Lately, I've noticed him limping a bit after some of our longer hikes, so I'll probably start leaving him behind more in the future. He's going on 8 now, not so young anymore, and he's getting some arthritis. I'll really miss his company on hikes.

The entrance to this trail is a driveway and gate between two houses, and it is not at all obvious from the street. On the gate, there is a sign saying "No Trail Access". But there is a gap between the gate and the fence just big enough to squeeze through. Obviously the park district wants to discourage anyone from using this entrance, but I doubt that they would do anything to enforce it. Anyway, on a Thursday morning, there was no one around, so I was able to slip past the gate unnoticed. Just inside a second gate there were three horses in a pasture who appeared unconcerned by me walking by.

Soon the houses were out of sight and I was following a grassy and brushy ridge with nice views of the hills all around. After a half-mile or so, there was another gate entering EBMUD land. The sign said that unlike all of the other EBMUD trails, no permit was required for this one. The trail continues as a wide fire road going up and down near the top of the ridge, and then climbs a couple hundred feet to the top of Dinosaur Ridge. Since I had been there only a few months ago, I didn't bother staying long, but I did notice that where before it had all been green grass and poppies, now it was all dead grass and weeds.

On the way back I passed another hiker doing the same hike as I, the only other person I saw all morning. It was a nice little hike -- quiet, good views, and it only took a little less than 2 hours. It was definitely an easier way to get to Dinosaur Ridge, although it was still a bit of a workout.

The map below shows my route deviating from the trail shown on the EBRPD map. That's not because I went off the trail, it's because their map is not accurate. I've recently noticed inaccurate trail alignments on several park district maps, and in this case I checked it against the GPS track on my iPhone, and my red line is closer to the location of the real trail.

4.2 miles, 800 ft. climb.

7-26-13 Las Trampas

 It looked like another good day for a hike -- morning fog promising to keep the heat down. After dropping off my grandson, Zachery, at Camp Tenderfoot, Darby and I drove to Danville. I wanted to check out an entrance to Las Trampas Regional Wilderness that I hadn't been to before, the Ringtail Cat Staging Area at the end of Hemme Ave. This appeared to be a good starting point for a loop through the northern end of the Park.

This area around Las Trampas Peak has always been special to me because it was one of the first wild areas that I knew as a kid. In the mid-50s, When I was about 10, my dad got the idea that we could hike over the hills from our home in Lafayette to my aunt and uncle's home in Danville. Dad and I and my younger sister set out without any directions or maps and somehow found our way there. At that time the whole area was undeveloped private land, but we rarely encountered anyone. If we did, the ranchers didn't mind too much as long as we didn't bother the cattle. We made many more hikes like that, and found a nice route along the northern end of Las Trampas Ridge to Las Trampas Peak, and then down the present Madrone Trail into San Ramon Valley. I wanted to revisit part of that route today.

Climbing Ringtail Cat Trail

The fog had cleared but it was still a bit cool as Darby and I started off following a dry creekbed from the small parking lot. Soon, the trail began a steep climb up the hill to the left. After a good hard climb, we came to a junction with the Madrone Trail in a open grassy flat overlooking the valley. I remembered this as the site of an oil drilling rig that was once here in the late 50s. They must not have found any oil, because it didn't stay there long. My plan was to head up the Corduroy Hills Trail to Eagle Peak, but right at this junction I saw a fairly well worn path heading straight up the hill. I figured that if it kept on going that way it would intersect my intended route, so I gave it a try. It turned to be a pretty good trail, but a steep climb. We continued on the Corduroy Hills Trail up the steep-sided crest of a ridge to Eagle Peak, coming out of the woods to steep chaparral and sandstone outcrops. Several years ago, I was hiking here, stepping between these rocks, when suddenly there was a big rattlesnake coiled and rattling in the middle of the trail. Somehow I managed a mid-stride leap and missed the snake. He was as startled as I was and slithered into the rocks before I could aim my camera.

Eagle Peak

 A steep, slippery scramble down across a saddle brought us to the Las Trampas Ridge Trail and we turned right. Now on a more familiar trail, we followed the ridge northwest to Las Trampas Peak. The actual peak is up a short side trail, but I had visited it fairly recently, we didn't bother going to the top. We descended a long grassy ridge to the northeast, then curved back into the canyon on the Madrone Trail. By now it was a bit warm, and I knew that Darby was getting pretty dry. On our park map there was a "horse water" symbol on the trail, and we found it as a small, muddy pond in the main canyon. After drinking for about 5 minutes without a break, Darby was now feeling better. We climbed a bit and contoured along the south side of the canyon shaded by oaks and bay trees. We finally completed our loop, and headed down the Ringtail Cat Trail back to our car.

Eagle Peak from near Las Trampas Peak

I hadn't bothered to estimate how long a hike this would be, but I knew it would he a pretty challenging one. It turned out to be just about the same distance and elevation gain as the hike I did on Mt. Diablo last week. I thought it was well worth the hard work, a good place to cover a lot of beautiful, rugged country.

7.2 miles, 2000 ft. climb

7-16-13 Mt. Diablo - The Grand Tour

Juniper Trail near start of hike

For the last couple of days, it has been foggy in the mornings and fairly cool in the afternoons. Today promised to be the same, so I thought it might be a good day for a hike on Mt. Diablo, where it is usually too hot this time of year. One of my favorite hikes on the mountain is a loop around the north side that I have done several times, but not for at least 20 years. The last time was with Maureen and a friend, Kim, a young guy that she worked with who loved a challenging hike. It was mid-winter, cold and windy. There were patches of snow in some spots along the trail, and near the end of the hike it began to snow again.

I remembered the hike as a demanding one, and I debated with myself for a while about whether I was too old for this now. I decided to go ahead. If it seemed to be getting too hard I could always turn back if I hadn't gone too far. But once I neared the half-way point, I would be committed to finishing because there are no short-cuts.

Driving out through Danville, I could see that the top of the mountain was still in clouds, but by the time I parked near the Juniper Campground, they had gone. Next to me was another older guy getting ready for a hike. He asked if I was doing the Grand Tour. I had seen this name for the route on my map, so I answered yes. But he was heading out in a clockwise direction and I had chosen to go the other way. I wanted to get the climb to the summit out of the way first, or maybe find a way to avoid it.

I started out up the Juniper Trail, climbing steeply, then leveling off for a bit. I had thought that maybe I could cut down off-trail to the road to avoid climbing the last 400 ft. or so to the Lower Summit Parking Lot, but although it was only a short distance, it was all solid chaparral that would have been very difficult to get through, so I stuck to the trail.

Clematis lasiantha

I noticed here and there in the brush was a plant with pretty white puff balls. I looked it up later and it appears that they were the seed pods of Clematis lasiantha, or Virgin's Bower. I continued to see lots of it throughout the hike. I also saw silk tassel, with similar feathery tassels, but not in a ball like the Clematis. In fact I noticed that there are all kinds of plants up here that I don't see in the hills nearer to home. I thought that being a dry July, it would be rather dead looking, but it was quite beautiful to see mountainsides patched with so many colors of green and gold.

On North Peak Trail

My climbing done for the next few miles, I headed down the Summit Trail to the hairpin turn called Devil's Elbow, and across the steep mountainside on the North Peak Trail, enjoying the great views to the south and east. As well as the many sights, I was enjoying the fragrant smells of pine and juniper, and the total quiet except for the occasional wind in the trees.

Prospector's Gap Road

By the time I reached Prospector's gap between the main peak and North Peak, I was feeling good and ready to commit to the whole route. Heading down the very steep road, I passed the guy who had hiked the other direction. He was making better time than I was although he still had about 1000 ft. of climbing ahead of him. Near the bottom of the descent, I passed Big Spring, a shady spot I remembered from previous hikes. For the next mile or so, the road stayed fairly level, then climbed a bit to Murchio Gap on the ridge leading out to Eagle Peak. The road dropped fairly steeply down grassy hillsides with views of Mitchell Canyon and then up again to Deer Flat.

Rocks somewhere on north side

There is not much there but a trail junction, but I remembered the spot from my Boy Scout days when I was in my early teens. As a training hike for a Sierra backpacking trip, we hiked with full packs from Mitchell Canyon all the way over the mountain to the Scout camp near Rock City. It was one of those 100 degree plus days, and I had a seriously hard time with it, suffering from dehydration and probably heat exhaustion, I had to stop and puke a couple of times. Deer flat was the spot where we stopped for a rest and wait for stragglers, of whom I was probably one. It was still another 800 ft. or so over the ridge to Juniper Camp, but after the rest I was better able to go on and complete the hike.

Manzanita and pine cones

Today, the weather was comfortably cool and I felt fine -- just a bit tired. I sat down and ate a granola bar and an apple. I could have used some water, but I didn't bring any. I guess lots of people would think it was pretty foolish to do a hike like this without water. I see people with their camelback packs hiking or cycling with a water tube in their mouths, apparently needing constant water. That way is probably healthier, but I've always gotten by without much water. On my first scout backpacking trip, I was told that it was not good to drink when you were hot and thirsty, that it would make you sick. Just suck on a little pebble and your thirst won't bother you so much. It was bad advice, but I learned that I could survive without frequent drinking. So I usually don't want the extra weight of a water bottle unless it is quite hot or the hike is long.

Today, the climb to the ridge didn't seem so bad. Most of it is an easy grade. I think doing the hike in the counter-clockwise direction was easier than the other way, although the elevation gain and loss are the same either way. But you don't have the steep sustained climb of nearly 2000 ft. on the last half of the hike.

There were a number of campers set up in Juniper Camp as I walked through. I always thought that this would be a very nice place to camp, although I never have. Shady sites with great views. When I got to the car, I noticed that the other guy's car was gone, confirming that he was a faster hiker. I don't mind. I'm way past being concerned with speed these days. This really was a great hike. Besides the rugged country and great views, I think what I like best about it is the feeling of being way out in a wild place, even though the surrounding cities are always in view far below.

 7.2 miles, 2000 ft. climb    (mileage from gps on my iPhone -- the map says 6.2 miles)

7-12-13 Carquinez Straits

There are a couple of fairly new regional parks in northern Contra Costa County that interested me, so today I checked out one of them, Carquinez Strait Regional Shoreline near Martinez. I was a little reluctant to drive so far for a short hike, but the drive wasn't really that bad -- 45 min. or so.

Finding the Nejedly Staging area on Carquinez Straits Scenic Drive took a little hunting through the little old streets of the Martinez waterfront, but we found it. There was only one other car in the parking lot, and as Darby and I prepared to go, the woman at the other car called out to me, saying that she had just locked her keys in her car. I was going to let her use my cell phone to call AAA, but just then she noticed two tow trucks parked in an upper parking area. She went up and talked with them and returned a bit upset because they rather rudely informed her that they weren't associated with AAA, and for 100 some odd dollars, they would help her, but otherwise she could get lost. So she went ahead and used my phone to call AAA.

We started up the Hulet Hornbeck Trail which climbs steeply and steadily up a shady little ravine. I remember Mr. Hornbeck from years ago when I was working on my book and went to meetings of the East Bay Trails Council. At that time he was in charge of land acquisition for the park district. I met him a couple of times, as well as one of his assistants, a young guy named Bob Doyle, who is now the general manager of the district.

At the top of the ridge, we had to choose between a couple mile loop trail to the right or  the continuation of the Hulet Hornbeck trail which follows the ridge to the left. The map showed the loop trail going pretty far down into a canyon meaning a lot more climbing, so I chose to go left. We went about a mile with lots of nice views before turning around and retracing our steps. We took the Rankin Park Trail back down off the ridge (the map shows two trails with the same name -- we took the western of the two). Near the bottom, we found a little path to the left along the upper edge of a cemetery that led us back to the staging area.

The locked-out-woman was back at her car, having got her car unlocked and finished her hike and run. She thanked me again for helping.

about 3 miles, 700 ft. climb

7-9-13 Tilden

Maureen and Cherry were off to their riding lessons, so with a free morning, I decided to finish off the Trails Challenge by hiking in Tilden. Maureen had expressed some interest in doing this hike, so I thought maybe I shouldn't go without her, but then I rationalized that we could always go back and do it again sometime. Since it was a Tuesday, I thought it would be OK to bring Darby, that we wouldn't run into too many dogs. I was wrong about that -- there were lots of dogs. There were several groups that were probably professional dog walkers because there was a single human with 5 or 6 dogs. Luckily, they all turned out to be quite well behaved, and Darby was OK with all but one who came a bit too close and elicited a growl from Darby.

The route started at Inspiration Point on Wildcat Canyon Road. We took the Curran Trail down a short ways and turned right on the Meadows Canyon Trail which winds along the hillside, descending into the canyon. At the bottom, near the Nature Area, we turned left on the Wildcat Gorge Trail, which follows Wildcat Creek upstream. The creek is pretty, flowing in a rocky bed. Midsummer in a dry year, there is not a lot of water, but more than most East Bay Creeks, which are totally dry now. High on the far bank of the creek is an impressive cliff of volcanic rock with several caves in it. We turned left again on the Curran Trail which brought us back up to our starting point.

I drove down to the Nature Area and went into the Visitor Center. I told the young woman at the counter about my hikes for the Trails Challenge, and she gave me my T-shirt. She said that I needed to mail in my completed log sheet to get a pin, but I don't really care about that. I hadn't realized that I could have got the T-shirt without completing the hikes, but I enjoyed doing them anyway.

3.3 miles, 600 ft. climb